Tuesday, June 5, 2012

On the Romantic Road at Rothenburg ob der Tauber

The weather had been very changeable and we were unsure where to head to the next day. We had two possible destinations, the first being Fusson where the famous Castle Neuschwanstein is located, and the second was Rothenburg ob der Tauber which is a medieval town, complete with towers, a complete walled in Alstadt, and all of the charm of one of the prettiest towns in the German Romantic Road.

Christine had wanted to see a castle during her visit to Germany, and clearly Neuschwanstein fit the bill, but the weather decided it for us on Friday morning. We got up early, checked the forecast and saw low 40’s and rain in Fusson and mid 50’s and sun in Rothenburg. So, having decided we headed out early. We headed up the Autobahn for about an hour then dropped off onto the side roads, and while passing through the town of Abenderg we sure enough saw a sign for the Berg (Castle) Abenberg. We made a short detour and found this darling 12th century, now privately owned as a hotel, castle. We only spent a brief time there, as it appeared to be deserted, even though we did walk around a bit and did use the restrooms.



We then headed down into the middle of the old town in Abenberg, found the local bakery, and bought some snacks for the road. Back up the hill and into the car and we were on our way to Rothenberg, which was about another 30 minutes up the road.

We soon arrived in Rothenburg on a cool and originally cloudy day. The town has a long and unique history, and you can learn more on Wikipedia.


This town is one of the main tourist attractions along the Romantic Road, but we arrived early in the season on a cloudy cool day and we actually able to drive into the Altstadt (Old Town) and get a parking spot right on one of the side streets. The town has a number of towers all around it and your drive through these old towers to enter the town.




We toured around for a bit, and then found ourselves a Turkish restaurant and had some delicious ….. for lunch. Over lunch we poured through our Romantic Road tour book and decided upon a few key spots we wanted to see. We decided upon the old town square, Saint Jacob’s Church, one of the towers in which you could climb to the top, and the Rathaus (town hall in Germany) as Christine wanted to see the Dungeon and the torture chambers!







After the Town Square we head into the Rathaus which had a small museum and the dungeons and torture chambers. The museum had recreations of life in Bavaria from the 1500’s, including numerous rooms and settings reflective of the times. During this time period people we routinely identified by the very specific dress that they wore, and there were many examples on view.



Most fascinating to me though was the sequence of coat-of-arms for each profession that existed then. I am including a number of the pictures here, and pay close attention to that last one for the “Backer”.






Our next stop on the tour was to head down into the basement to see the dungeon and the torture chamber. You first go down this narrow, creepy staircase and end up in the guards’ room below.



After that you travel down a very low, very dark and cramped tunnel that leads to the torture chamber and the dungeons.




In the main room you come to there are numerous implements used, all of which need not really be explained. The first photo shows the stock where prisoners were locked up by their feet and their neck. There are even some mannequins in place so you can get a better idea of this. The second photo is some gruesome apparatus that was use to stretch people out. The subjects’ feet were locked in irons and attached to the large concrete blocks on the floor and then the crank on the left side was used to help make you taller! At one point during the 30 years war the mayor of Rothenburg found himself on the wrong side of the religious argument and ended up here, never to come out alive. To the right of where Michael is standing were two cells that were low, dark and damp and not a place to find yourself in. Some good did come of all this for during World War II the residents of Rothenburg used these rooms during Allied air raids.





We then headed out through a long extensive archway, with a plan to visit the Saint Jacob’s church to see one of the rarer religious relics, but upon arriving at the church we found it very crowded and requiring a 2 euro entrance fee to get in. This was the first time I had ever seen an entrance fee required, so we decided to pass on this church. To bad as I would have liked to see the Altarpiece of Holy Blood which serves as a shrine and reliquary for the relic of The Blood of Christ.

We then wandered around through the back streets of Rothenburg for a bit, snapping pictures and just enjoying the charm and beauty of this town. At one point, to our utter amazement, we came upon a person ridding and Segway, which seemed like such and odd coincidence since Mike works for the company that invented them and it is certainly one of the last modern things you might expect to see in this town.




We continued to wander the streets, at one point passing through a former convent to see the view from the outside walls as you gazed over the Tauber river below. Eventually we passed back through the main town square and Deb and I wandered into a art dealers shop were we bought a print on one of the more famous view in Rothenbeurg. Deb snapped a picture or me standing outside the art dealers’ shop where the road parts and you can clearly see two of the old towers and gateways into the city. If you go to Google images and search on Rothenburg ob der Tauber this is most likely the first or second photo that will come up. It is in all the guide books, and is actually on the cover of our Romantic Road guide book we use.



Just outside this location you can pass through the buildings and get out onto the wall. I snapped a few pictures of Deb sitting on the wall, with parts of the old city in the background. You can clearly see one of the towers in the left side background.




Our next stop was to get up on the wall and climb up one of the many towers that surround the city. It is rare in the old towns that you can either climb on the wall or up into the towers, but you can do both here in Rothenburg. I also included a few pictures of the main room up in the top of the tower.














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